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Bring a Loupe The Aussie Edit - A Heuer Skipper, A Cult-Classic Vacheron Constantin, & Two Divergent Styles Of Gold Watch

A bit of old, a bit of new, with an oddball Omega in between.

This month's Australian watch market round-up features pieces that all have unusual case designs - from slabby tonneaus and shapely integrated bracelets to skew-whiff dials and precious stones. As always, there are some real treasures to be found Down Under. Scorekeeping last month's picks: all but the Rolex Cellini Queen Midas are still available, so you're in luck if you've been um-ing and ah-ing.


A Heuer Skipper ref. 15640

Do you own an America's Cup yacht currently bobbing in Sydney Harbour? If so, I've got the watch for you! In the 21st century, all watch complications are superfluous, but regatta timers could be one of the most superfluous. They’re also one of the most whimsical and romantic, and this Heuer Skipper is a cracking example of one.

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Regatta timers are specifically designed chronographs for yacht racing, prioritising the five-minute countdown needed at the start of a yacht race. You’ll find different design approaches across the genre, but the most famous is undoubtedly the Heuer Skipper ref. 7754, a cult classic that TAG Heuer revived in modern Carrera Glassbox form in 2023. This model, however, is the other Heuer Skipper, the ‘second execution’ that lives in the shadow of the original Skipper. In their fervour for the original, I think collectors are missing a trick.

To create this Skipper ref. 15640, Heuer took the Autavia and adapted it from the racetrack to the water, adding the triple sector subdial in red, white and blue. Each sector tracks 5-minute increments, and Heuer modified the movement so the chronograph minute hand jumps in 30-second increments, for even more granular reading at a quick glance without checking the chrono's second hand. The minimal running seconds subdial was also shifted up slightly, with the Skipper text below it at 9.

These Heuer regatta chronographs are dripping in charisma, built for that Ralph Lauren character racing on the harbour that deep down I think we all wish we could be. This watch gets you a piece of that life, and Crown Vintage are selling one that’s close to new old stock condition. Looking at the listing photos, I can’t see a mark on the dial or bezel insert, with lovely patinaed tritium lume and a really sharp case with strong chamfers. The listing states the caseback sticker is original, and it’s fitted to a good-condition original Tropic Sport rubber strap. The only point I can deduct is that it’s missing a Heuer-signed buckle, but these are easily sourced. It's yours for A$13,850.


A Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

From one purpose-built sports watch to the other end of the spectrum... There are multiple ways to skin a cat. I feel like I’m seeing Vacheron Constantin's off-kilter driver’s watch get more love in 2026 than ever before, appearing to have transitioned from back-catalogue oddball to seriously chic trophy watch.

If you aren’t yet acquainted with this one: this is a Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 in white gold, updated and reintroduced to the catalogue in 2021. It’s a tribute to the original Roaring Twenties VC American, which rotated the dial and crown 45 degrees to create a driver’s watch where one doesn’t need to take their hand off the wheel to read the time. It’s a clever solution that other brands have since put their own spin on (no pun intended), but the Vacheron was the first.

Curiously, the American 1921 has become the most delectable collectible in the VC Historiques line (other than the extremely hyped 222) somewhat recently, as 1920s watch design isn’t particularly in vogue. Still, it’s an Art Deco design with a twist that throws a bit of function at an otherwise decorative style - I think that contrast is what makes it such an alluring watch today. They hit the market very sparingly in Australia, and Hailwood Peters has this 2023 example up for grabs for A$50,000 now. Check it out here.


A lapis lazuli-dialled Jaeger-LeCoultre 'Tank'

When I first saw this Jaeger-LeCoultre, it stopped me in my tracks. It’s the inverse of what’s commonly seen with these mid-century square JLCs: usually, these are seen with a lapis lazuli dial with a gold chapter ring set within the yellow gold square case (similar to this one that Hourstance recently sold), but this example flips the script with a thin lapis lazuli chapter ring set with gold Roman numerals, all set within the gold dial.

Its case is also a surprise: a square 28.5mm with a 20mm lug width that makes it a 'jumbo' for its era and one that would wear very well today. It’s manually wound and cased in solid yellow 18k gold, as you'd expect. The case is in rather good condition, and it’s retained the original cabochon crown. The service history is unknown on this one, but it’s running well according to the listing - see it for yourself here at Tempo Archive in Melbourne. Price: A$8,550.


An Omega Seamaster Polaris

As our current watch market fawns over unusual neo-vintage 90s and Y2K design, cutting edge case materials and a dissipating taboo of quartz, it astounds me that the Omega Seamaster Polaris hasn’t exploded in popularity. Carrying all of the traits that make a hot watch in 2026, I’m starting to see a slowly building groundswell of interest in them, especially since their obscurity makes them an affordable and easy to service first watch for those dipping their toes into vintage.

This example is a time-and-date Seamaster Polaris sized at 25.5mm; however, that integrated bracelet will give it a lot of presence on wrist. The Polaris range is one of Omega’s early forays into titanium, and this one goes a step beyond with a gold inset geometric pattern framing the dial. The dial itself is in nice condition, with little wear, though the lume in the hands is showing some age.

What especially draws my eye with this one is the case and bracelet condition, which you regularly see polished to oblivion. This example retains its brushed titanium finish across the watch head and bracelet, plus includes the original papers.

It’s on eBay Australia for A$1,200 and is open to offers - this would make one hell of a first watch for anyone with avant-garde design taste who’s ready for strangers to ask them about their watch, and isn't a quartz snob, either. In the wild, a Polaris gets a lot of attention.