The Ulysse Nardin Freak has always been one of watchmaking's true originals. When Ludwig Oechslin's design first appeared in 2001, with no dial, no hands, no crown, with the entire going train rotating around the case to indicate the minutes, it rewrote most of the assumptions about how a watch should be built and read. A quarter of a century later, Ulysse Nardin is still developing the idea, and the second-generation Freak X is a strong argument that the concept has plenty of room to evolve.
This latest generation of the Freak X arrives with three new references – two in steel with sandblasted grey and gradient blue dials, and one in rose gold with a black dial, all of which we got hands-on with – as the watchmaker celebrates two noteworthy milestones: Ulysse Nardin's 180th anniversary as a manufacture and the 25th of the Freak itself.
For anyone who hadn’t yet lived with one of watchmaking’s wildest contemporary designs, the original Freak X that debuted in 2019 was both more accessible and familiar, thanks mostly to its conventional crown and architecture. While the Freak X did slightly depart from the original design, its wearability on a day-to-day basis made it a hit, and this latest generation only improves things further.
Before getting to the watch on the wrist, it's worth noting the substance of this latest generation of the Freak X. Far more than a fresh dial colour or an updated bracelet offering, Ulysse Nardin has reconsidered nearly every component of the watch, including the case construction, the winding system, the crystal, the finishing, and the ergonomics of how it sits on the wrist. The result might look familiar, but once we dig into the numbers, you’ll see just how different this watch is.
Starting with the case (that’s where we all feel it first, after all), the outgoing Freak X measured 43mm across, while the three new references come in at 41mm, with the lug-to-lug distance trimmed to a genuinely wearable 47.3mm (down from 49.6mm). Two millimetres might not sound significant on paper, though the proportions of the Freak mean it’s a watch that’s always worn its dimensions honestly, and the reduction makes a real difference. Thickness is quoted at 13.6mm thanks to a new box-shaped sapphire crystal, but the case itself is only 10.35mm in height, with the domed profile of the crystal visually absorbing much of that height.
The glassbox sapphire also opens up a wider aperture over the movement, and since the movement effectively is the dial on a Freak, it’s a move that owners are guaranteed to appreciate every day they strap it to their wrists.
There's a new monobloc case construction, too, replacing the previous modular build, which Ulysse Nardin says improves rigidity and reduces any mechanical vibration through the case. While this is a tough one to directly experience on the wrist (beyond the improvements to timekeeping), it's the sort of engineering that suggests a clear line between this generation and the one that came before it.
Beyond the harder-to-spot updates to the case (which includes cases made using 80% recycled steel), the most noticeable change in the case is the arrival of a screw-down crown, a first in the history of the Freak X. This doubles the water resistance of this latest generation from 50m to 100m, cementing it as a watch you could pull from your drawer and wear without a worry.
As with all of the best new generations in watchmaking, the movement of these latest Freak X references has also been updated. While the previous Freak X ran on the UN-230, a full-rotor automatic, the new versions enjoy the calibre UN-232 that was developed over more than two years. The main visual change between the UN-230 and the UN-232 is the introduction of a rose gold micro-rotor, which not only allows for a more slimline profile on the wrist, but also brings a touch of warmth to an otherwise cool view through the exhibition caseback.
The UN-232 also boasts a substantive upgrade in the escapement, now equipped with Ulysse Nardin's DIAMonSIL technology that already exists in the brand’s catalogue. In essence, the technology adds diamond-coated silicon to the escape wheel and pallet fork to ensure an increase in hardness and a reduction in friction, working in tandem with the silicon balance and the SIGATEC-produced ovoid-shaped silicon hairspring. Beyond these technical improvements, the remaining specs are unchanged, with the movement comprising 216 components, ticking away at 3Hz, and providing a 72-hour power reserve when fully wound (despite the size reduction).
One lesser-known detail about Ulysse Nardin is the claim that every movement is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker. This labour-intensive approach to movement construction is also seen in the finishing of the new calibre UN-232, which offers a blend of satin-brushed, polished and grained surfaces, while the oscillator bridge enjoys hand-bevelled details. Altogether, it’s a package that feels appropriately industrial for such a visually technical watch, while somehow maintaining the undeniable impression that each watch has been hand-assembled.
As far as straps and bracelets, the sandblasted grey reference in steel arrives with a calfskin strap, the steel with a blue gradient dial has a new integrated bracelet, and a black dial rose gold version is paired with an alligator leather strap. Every watch in the collection also has the option of a rubber strap created in collaboration with the Singapore-based strap maker Delugs. All three references use a new quick-release, interchangeable strap system, which is exactly the kind of everyday practicality Freak X owners are looking for.
All considered, it’s a very strong update to one of horology’s most technical collections. The Freak X has always been the everyday Freak, as the model that made a famously unconventional watch easier to wear in any context, but what the second generation manages is even more impressive, as it remains just as easy to live with, while dialling up the technical sophistication that made the collection so interesting to begin with. It’s got a smaller case, an updated movement, improved water resistance, and sharper finishing, all of which combine to create a watch that’s as wearable as it is substantial.
This latest generation of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X is priced at A$63,900 for the steel Freak X in grey, A$65,600 for the blue-dialled bracelet, and A$98,900 for the rose gold.
Brand: Ulysse Nardin
Model: Freak X
Reference Number: 2323-500-1A/0A, 2323-500-3A/7A, 2322-500-2A/1A
Diameter: 41mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or rose gold
Dial Colour: Grey sandblasted, blue gradient satin sunburst or black sandblasted
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova hands
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel with deployant clasp, leather strap options, white rubber (Delugs for Ulysse Nardin) and rubber ballistic straps
Calibre: UN-232, in-house
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Micro-rotor automatic
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Chronometer Certified: No
Price: A$63,900 in grey, A$$65,600 in blue, A$98,900 in gold
Availability: Now, exclusively at The Hour Glass in Australia and New Zealand
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
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