Hands-On The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm

Photos by Mark Kauzlarich

I spent time with the new 37mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo at Watches and Wonders last week, and wow, it was sleek. Up until now, the mainline Octo Finissimo, which measures up at 40mm, works from a design point of view, but hasn't always translated that well on the wrist. A common criticism from many collectors is that, thanks to its plate-like form, it wears very big, even on a larger wrist.

This new 37mm model, however, keeps the same aesthetic and material execution, but offers a far more compact diameter that wears better across a wider range of wrists. It’s powered by the new in-house BVF 100 calibre (versus the BVF 138 in the 40mm model), which, like its predecessor, is an automatic micro-rotor movement. It measures just 2.35mm thick: that’s actually slightly thicker than the movement used in the 40mm, by about 0.12mm, but it’s been reworked to take up less space overall.

That sounds counterintuitive, but it comes down to a complete rethink of the movement architecture rather than simply making everything thinner. The result is arguably a better movement than what the 40mm model receives: yes, it's slightly thicker, but it actually represents a 20% reduction in total volume. Crucially, it delivers a much more substantial 72-hour power reserve, and also features charming soleil-style côtes de Genève radiating out from the balance. Despite the reduced dimensions, it still retains a transparent caseback and 30 metres of water resistance.

A lot of that development stems from what Bvlgari has been doing with the Piccolissimo and Solotempo movements over the past three years, particularly in powering the house’s most recognisable Serpenti watches. You see that same thinking carried through here. At 37mm and just 6.45mm thick, it still holds all the complexity of the Octo geometry, but the proportions feel tighter. At around 65 grams, the weight is almost secondary, but you do notice it. Not because it feels light, but because it barely feels like anything at all.

The bracelet integration has been reworked as well, now using a screw-fastening system that brings the case and bracelet closer together. It sounds like a small detail, but you notice it the moment you put it on. I wore it on both a bare wrist and over a shirt, and it just sat properly in both cases. It’s light, and it wears the way you want it to. The clasp has also been redesigned with more conventional push-buttons - a response to consumer feedback that the friction-fit of the 40mm bracelet confused some customers.

Now to the different variations. Titanium still leads, which at this point feels inseparable from the Octo Finissimo story. It’s offered in two finishes, sandblasted and satin-polished, and they read quite differently on the wrist. The sandblasted version softens the case and adds depth, while the satin-polished finish does the opposite, picking up the edges, emphasising the geometry, and sharpening the overall look.

Then there’s the 18-carat yellow gold version, which shifts the tone entirely. Warmer, but still very much within the Finissimo language. The fourth version is a 37mm minute repeater, representing the apex of the range, but that's a whole other conversation (sadly, I didn't have the chance to try this one on in Geneva).

The Octo Finissimo was already great. But this is the first time it actually feels wearable, at least from my perspective. It’s lighter, even more comfortable, and from a style point of view, far more adaptable. It works on its own, still slips easily under a cuff, or even sits nicely over a shirt. The material options help too. Titanium keeps it light and technical, the gold softens it, and overall it leans into something you’d actually wear day to day, regardless of wrist size.

For me, this is where the Octo Finissimo starts to make real sense. Not just as a technical piece, but as something you’d genuinely want to put on and leave on. This isn't just a standard shrinking exercise: the 37mm is now arguably the pick of the time-only Octo Finissimo range.

Brand: Bulgari
Model: Octo Finissimo
Reference Number: 104089 (sandblasted titanium); 104120 (satin-polished yellow gold); 104351 (satin-polished titanium)

Diameter: 37mm
Thickness: 6.45mm
Case Material: Sandblasted or satin-polished titanium; satin-polished yellow gold
Dial Colour: Opaline titanium dial with black hands and indexes; Yellow gold dial with yellow gold-plated hands and indexes; Opaline titanium dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet with integrated folding buckle with push buttons in the same material as the case

Caliber: BVF 100
Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Diameter: 31mm
Thickness: 2.35mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic micro-rotor
Frequency: 3Hz
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Decorated by hand with radiating côtes de Genève and perlage finishing

Price: 26,900 AUD in sandblasted titanium, 77,200 AUD in yellow gold, brushed titanium AUD pricing TBC
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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