Hands-On The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet

Photos by Jamie Weiss and TanTan Wang

The new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, however, debuts a new generation of IWC perpetual calendar, and is an innovation almost as significant as the calibre 79060. Not only is it significantly smaller than previous IWC QPs, but it also allows the user to adjust the perpetual calendar not just forward, but backwards, all still via the crown - meaning that there’s no more fear of oversetting.

IWC debuted this ‘ProSet’ movement (officially the calibre 82665) at Watches and Wonders earlier this year with three Big Pilots: two Le Petit Prince models, one in stainless steel on a bracelet and one in white ceramic on rubber, as well as an 18ct 5N red gold model on a green leather strap. (An additional steel limited edition marking the 140th anniversary of Mercedes-Benz has joined the range since then). It’s the gold that I was able to get hands-on with last month, and it left a big impression.

Let’s start with the specs that are common to all three case materials, beyond the ProSet movement. As mentioned, these three Big Pilot Perpetual Calendars are smaller than those that have come before them, shrinking down from 46.5mm in diameter to 42mm, and from 15.4mm thick to 14mm. (The ceramic model is slightly thicker at 43mm x 14.3mm.) This alone would be a newsworthy development: 42mm by 14mm still isn’t small, but it’s much more manageable than previously. Also, these ProSet Big Pilots have received a water resistance boost from 60 to 100 metres, which is only a good thing.

Otherwise, the dial design of the BPPC hasn’t been significantly changed with the introduction of the ProSet, which is no bad thing. Broad sword hands with plenty of real estate for lume can be found across the main handset as well as calendar subdials, aiding legibility, while IWC’s distinct minimalist moonphase remains in pride of place at 12 o’clock. This gold model has a pleasant green sunburst, punctuated by azuraged recesses for the subdials. Green and gold – very Aussie. The only two substantial changes are the removal of the power reserve indicator, and now the year indicator is tucked in tighter to the month subdial.

Operating a perpetual calendar entirely via the crown necessitates a good crown, and this is where the BPPC really comes into its own. The Big Pilot’s oversized crown, with its pronounced knurling and diamond-like shape, is extremely easy to manipulate. This design might have its roots in making it easy for pilots wearing gloves to change the time on their watches, but it also comes in clutch when you’re adjusting a complicated calendar.

I only have two points of criticism, and they’re to do with the watch’s strap. The Austrian-made leather is handsome and comfortable, but for whatever reason, IWC hasn’t equipped the ProSet with quick-change straps. IWC’s EasX-Change system is one of the better quick-release systems on the market, but the brand is strangely inconsistent about which watches it ships with EasX-Change straps and which it doesn’t.

The more significant point of criticism is around the clasp. I found the clasp on the model I was testing to be extremely stiff – I had to squeeze extremely hard to snap it closed and had to really reef on it to open it, which is anxiety-inducing when it’s made of precious metal. Perhaps with time and wear it will become less recalcitrant… At least the watch felt very secure on my wrist!

It’s worth mentioning that IWC isn’t the only watchmaker currently offering a perpetual calendar that can be adjusted entirely via the crown and that can go forwards and backwards, but the ProSet remains an exemplar in this regard.

Audemars Piguet’s calibre 7138, which is found in a number of Royal Oak and Code 11.59 models, is also totally crown-adjusted and is substantially thinner than the IWC ProSet calibre. However, it’s not quite as foolproof to adjust – it has 4 crown positions, which personally gives me the willies – and every AP that utilises this calibre is substantially more expensive than any ProSet model, not to mention significantly harder to acquire at retail.

Similarly, Moser's HMC 800 and 812 movements, found in the Endeavour and Streamliner families respectively, can also be entirely adjusted via the crown and go forwards and backwards. They’re also finished to a much higher standard and have much better power reserves… But they’re also manual-winding and, much like AP, are much more expensive/harder to acquire than the IWC ProSet, plus offer a very different aesthetic.

Disregarding the adjustability factor for a second, if you’re simply looking for a sporty QP, especially one that’s based on a pilot’s watch, Breitling offers the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, which is over A$10k cheaper than the ProSet in steel. However, the Breitling’s movement requires pushers to adjust its calendar; it cannot go backwards, and the Navitimer offers a more traditional aesthetic than the Big Pilot (or perhaps fliegers just feel more timeless?)

I think IWC did itself something of a disservice this year at Watches and Wonders by having too many strong releases, which meant the ProSet got lost in the noise. Forget about competing with other brands for attention: the unusual Pilot's Venturer Vertical Drive space watch and the absolute party trick that is the Ceralume BPPC stole the spotlight. Which is a shame, because the ProSet is/was the most horologically innovative and impressive of IWC’s 2026 releases. IWC, you should’ve paced yourself!

That’s not surprising: an updated movement, however impressive, is perhaps less immediately exciting than a space watch or a full lume QP. It’s harder to summarise in a social media post. But for real connoisseurs, the ProSet represents a very exciting prospect.

Beyond the fact that it’s now arguably the easiest to live with a perpetual calendar on the market, IWC also managed to reduce the diameter and thickness of the BPPC, while also making it more water-resistant. In any other year, this would be a marquee release; if IWC had turned up to Geneva with just the ProSet, no one would’ve complained.

Anyway, I’m not here to harangue the brand about its release strategy. I’m simply a fan of the BPPC ProSet, and I enjoyed my time wearing it. I was particularly surprised by how much I enjoyed wearing a substantial gold watch like this: while smaller, the ProSet is still not what you’d call a small watch, but it was by no means overwhelming on the wrist, despite its precious-metal construction. If they end up making it in Ceratanium with a case-matching bracelet, they'd have my dream IWC.

Brand: IWC
Model: Big Pilot's Perpetual Calendar ProSet
Reference Number: IW329602 (red gold, as tested)

Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 14mm
Case Material: 18ct 5N red gold
Dial Colour: Green sunburst
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Green Austrian leather flieger strap, red gold folding clasp

Calibre: 82665
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with year and perpetual moon phase
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Jewels: 34
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: New IWC ProSet reversible perpetual calendar, entirely operated via the crown

Price: A$89,700 (red gold, as tested)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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