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Photos by Borna Bošnjak
Maturing as a company means, among other things, being able to follow up your icons with something new and fresh, but without diluting the original formula too much. That is what Zenith’s Chronomaster collection has been doing for the past few years, growing into more than just slightly different shapes of the El Primero.
Today, it welcomes its first-ever three-handed member in the Zenith Chronomaster Solo, distilling the successful Chronomaster Sport design into a simpler proposition. Sporting a silicon escapement and a 5Hz beat rate, it’s the El Primero 3600 movement you know and love, but sans sub-dials and pushers. It’s been done before in other Zenith collections, but how does it fare as a Chronomaster?
Not the first El Primero-powered three-hander
Confused? I don’t blame you - but the new Chronomaster Sport is steeped in historical precedent. Nearly 15 years ago, we saw the first example of a three-handed El Primero with Zenith’s Espada. It was simpler and slimmer, made to be the perfect corporate office companion. The Espada would become the Synopsis in 2014, gaining an open heart-style dial, but still retaining that all-important “El Primero” designation. Even the “Solo” part of the name is historically relevant, though this one goes way back to the 1960s and the slim, very dressy Solo Tempo models of the era.
The Zenith Espada El Primero, the first non-chronograph El Primero.
The Zenith Pilot Automatic 40mm, another El Primero-powered three-hander.
So, then, we’ve established that this simplification of Zenith’s iconic chronograph calibre is not a new thing. Looking at Zenith’s other ranges like the Defy or Pilot ranges confirms that, considering they’ve featured El Primero-derived non-chronograph calibres for some time now.
The Chronomaster Solo Sport isn’t shy about it either, proudly featuring the “El Primero” script on its dials. The dialside movement hints continue, with “36,000 VpH” and “high frequency” in bold script, referencing the El Primero 3620 CS. Compared to its siblings, the variant in the Solo Sport sports (pun intended) a new skeletonised rotor (now more simply tributing the star motif instead of being shaped like one), while the bridges beneath have also been opened for a more in-depth look at the calibre. The free-sprung balance meshes with a silicon escape wheel and lever, which you can see in a bright purple colour, naturally beating at 5 Hz as the horogods intended.
Very nice materials
With the aforementioned movement changes mean you’d likely want to spend some time staring, Zenith very clearly also cares that the reverse is no less interesting. The word of the day here is ceramic, used for both the bezel and the dial itself. The former is interesting as the entire bezel is a solid piece of ceramic, rather than an insert in a steel ring. The latter pays further tribute to the movement’s high beat rate - whether you choose polished black or brown, or sunburst white, you’ll be met with an engraved pattern of interconnected Zs. Well, Zenith says they’re Zs (and that makes sense), but I was reminded of an EKG read-out, which honestly feels just as fitting.
This waveform idea also extends to the sharktooth minute track, which is a beloved feature on El Primero models both vintage and new. The hour indices aren’t quite as sharp, with a slightly tapered coffin shape that gives the dial nice dimension and matches the handset. Zenith is offering the Solo Sport in both date and no-date variants, and while I’m usually not one of those date-haters, these dials feel a lot more balanced sans 3 o’clock aperture.
The attention to nice finishes continues throughout the 40mm case. The multitude of wide, mirror-polished surfaces suggests that this isn’t meant to be an all-out dive watch despite it being most akin to that in style. This is something I’d usually nitpick over as I, like many others, tend to prefer all-brushed sports watches, but given the very shiny ceramic bits on the bezel and dial, I get it, and I don’t mind it.
A wide, polished length of mid-links ends in Zenith’s all-new Zenclasp, which launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders. The operation is simple, requiring the wearer to pull up on the central portion of the clasp to adjust the length of the bracelet without any tools. Overall, I found it a breeze to use, and the bracelet very comfortable, though I do wish the design was a little more imaginative.
Competing in the big leagues… and with itself?
A historic watchmaker, especially one with an iconic design in their catalogue like in Zenith’s case, could easily become a one-trick pony. To the brand’s credit, they’ve not stopped trying to innovate, doing their best to avoid being pigeonholed as the 'El Primero brand'. The Chronomaster Solo Sport is part of that movement, looking to capitalise on a recognisable name to more easily justify its proposition. Looking at what’s on offer, it’s a formula that makes sense - the materials are high-end and beautifully finished, and the movement is not only one with a great backstory, but also one that offers something different to its competition.
And competition here is key, as the stainless steel sports watch market has never been more crowded. Starting at A$15,600 for the no-date model (a price that makes much more sense to me than the extra A$1,800 for a date window), its rivals are obvious, but what the Solo Sport has going for it is a slightly different take on the established parameters. It doesn’t present as an all-out diver’s watch, instead carving out its own niche with a more versatile design, but essentially being just as capable on paper.
Curiously, however, if it’s an El Primero movement you want, the most historically faithful model, the Chronomaster Original, is available at basically the same price point as the Chronomaster Solo Sport. Where the sportier, time-only variant differs is its choice of materials and its really nice, adjustable bracelet - so it’ll come down to the style of watch you’re looking for.
What this means is that Zenith’s new, sporty challenger fits right in when it comes to competitors in its weight class, while also making Zenith’s OG El Primero chronograph look like a relative bargain. A win-win, then?
The Basics
Brand: Zenith
Model: Chronomaster Solo Sport
References: 03.5000.3620/69.M5000, 03.5000.3620/22.M5000, 03.5001.3620/72.M5000, 03.5000.3620/21.M5000
Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel, ceramic bezel
Dial Colour: Black, white, or brown solid ceramic; sharktooth motif
Crystal: Sapphire front and back
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova SLN C1
Water Resistance: 200 metres
Strap/Bracelet: Three-link steel bracelet, Zenclasp with tool-free micro-adjustment
The Movement
Calibre: El Primero 3620 CS, in-house
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds, date (optional)
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 5 Hz
Diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼ lignes)
Thickness: 6.6mm
Jewels: 27
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: A$15,600 (no date), A$17,400 (date)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
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