Hands-On The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet

Zenith chronographs have always been bold, especially when it comes to colour. From the tri-coloured subdials of the early El Primero A386 to the Rainbow Flyback of 1997 or collaborations like the Defy 21 Felipe Pantone of 2021 and the Defy Chronograph USM collection from last year, Zenith has always been willing to combine its impressive high-beat chronograph movements with experimental, vibrant hues.

Another notable, colourful Zenith chrono was the Defy 21 Ultraviolet from 2020. I remember seeing one on the wrist of a fellow watch collector at a watch collector’s get-together shortly after its launch, and it was hard to miss: those bright purple shades and rapidly spinning chronograph hand making for one hell of a party trick.

This year sees the Ultraviolet name return, this time attached to a Defy Extreme, an even beefier and statement-making watch that suits this unsubtle style perfectly. I had the chance to wear the Defy Extreme Ultraviolet for over a month ahead of its public launch, and I found it oddly compelling, even though it’s a watch that, on many levels, will divide opinion.

To start with, let’s examine the Defy Extreme. Launched in 2021, it’s a model that draws influence both from the original Defy A3642 from the late 1960s and from the large, out-there contemporary designs produced by the historic brand under the aegis of maverick former CEO Thierry Nataf in the 2000s.

At 45mm in diameter and 15.4mm thick, it is a seriously big watch. But that’s almost the point of the Defy Extreme – it’s an extreme interpretation of the El Primero. If you’re looking for a smaller watch, go for a Defy Skyline or Defy 21, and if you’re looking for something dressier (or perhaps more classic is a better way to put it), look within the Chronomaster range. The Defy Extreme is meant to be bold and brassy.

In that sense, it’s the perfect canvas for an Ultraviolet treatment, offering both plenty of real estate and plenty of wrist presence. That presence isn’t just felt by others, by the way: despite being cased in matte microblasted titanium, the Defy Extreme is not a watch that you’ll forget you’re wearing, whether that’s because it doesn’t slip under a cuff or because of its heft.

Of course, the main event here is the Ultraviolet part of the equation. What this means is that the Defy Extreme’s subdials are made from violet-tinted sapphire, the minute track is purple, and even movement elements have been PVD-treated violet, as well as the automatic rotor.

This isn’t the only Defy Extreme where colour takes centre stage: last year saw the release of the Defy Extreme Chroma, which has rainbow-gradated indices, subdials and movement elements; the Defy Extreme Jungle, which has tiger eye elements and striped subdials; and launched on the same day as the Defy Extreme Ultraviolet, there’s also the Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli II, which combines forged carbon elements with the eponymous gemstone. However, the Ultraviolet stands out as perhaps the most colourful of the lot, largely thanks to the fact thatit ships on a violet rubber strap. When you’ve got this baby on your wrist, there’s just so much purple!

To tell the truth, purple has never been my colour, and I don’t think I’m alone in this regard. And yet, I found that the Defy Extreme Ultraviolet wasn’t quite as sartorially challenging as I thought it might be. Big proviso: I’m red/green colourblind, so I won’t ever profess to be some sort of colour expert. But I found that the specific shade of violet that Zenith has opted for works really well with denim (of which I wear heaps), and there’s something about such a bold tone on such a statement watch that almost encourages you to pair it with different outfits. Being that it ships with two additional strap options – a black Velcro strap and a case-matching bracelet, which are easy to swap out for one another thanks to the Defy Extreme’s exceptional quick-change system – you’ve got options.

But the Defy Extreme Ultraviolet isn’t just all colour and no substance. While not exclusive to the Defy Extreme, the El Primero 9004 that powers it is one of the most impressive series-production chronograph movements on the market. Its chief innovation is that it boasts two independent escapements: one for standard timekeeping, which beats at 5 Hz, plus another exclusively for the chronograph, which beats at a whopping 50 Hz.

The result is a chronograph seconds hand that can complete one full rotation every second: not only does this allow the wearer to track elapsed time to 1/100th of a second, but it also looks unbelievably cool. It’s pretty loud, too: I got a kick out of starting the chrono and then asking friends to put the watch up to their ears to hear it go off its head.

Naturally, the chronograph absolutely chews power reserve. However, just as it has two mainsprings, the El Primero 9004 has two barrels, one for standard timekeeping and one for the chronograph. The two barrels are isolated from one another, meaning that running the chrono doesn’t drain the main power reserve, and both are integrated on the same mainplate, meaning that the chrono also doesn’t affect the accuracy of standard timekeeping.

Herein lies a quirk of the Defy Extreme: the two barrels are wound in different directions. The main barrel for standard timekeeping is wound by the automatic rotor or by turning the crown counter-clockwise, while the chronograph barrel is wound by turning the crown clockwise. Also, the main barrel provides a 50-hour power reserve, but the chronograph barrel only allows the chronograph to run for a maximum of 50 minutes – hence the 30-minute subdial and no hour subdial.

I have to admit, being unfamiliar with the Defy Extreme and the El Primero 9004 before it landed on my desk for review, this winding system and dual power reserve took me by surprise. I assumed that there was only one single barrel powering both systems, so after a week or so of wearing the watch and showing off the chronograph, I was puzzled as to why the chronograph seemed to be broken, but it was just out of power. A quick wind solved the issue. It’s a pertinent reminder: always read the manual!

The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is a fitting follow-up to the Defy 21 Ultraviolet and, in some ways, is a sequel that’s better than the original. If the point of a boldly-coloured, fast-beating chronograph is to turn heads, go big or go home, I say. This is resolutely not a watch for everyone, not only because of its hue but also because of its size and masculine design. But that's okay. For the Zenith faithful, this will make sense, and for those looking for a big ol' statement watch that isn't an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or Panerai Luminor, this will scratch that itch.

Brand: Zenith
Model: Defy Extreme Ultraviolet
Reference Number: 97.9100.9004/80.I209
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 15.4mm
Lug-to-Lug: 51mm
Case Material: Matte microblasted titanium, rubber crown knurling
Dial: Open with violet-tinted sapphire subdials
Indices: Applied, rhodium-plated
Crystal: Sapphire front and back
Lume: Super-LumiNova SLN C1
Water Resistance: 200 metres
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated violet rubber strap with titanium folding clasp. 2 additional straps included: 1 microblasted titanium bracelet and 1 black Velcro strap

Calibre: El Primero 9004, in-house
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 1/100th of a second chronograph, power reserve indicator
Power Reserve: 50 hours (timekeeping), 50 minutes (chronograph)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 5 Hz (timekeeping), 50 Hz (chronograph)
Chronometer Certified: Yes

Price: A$31,300
Available: Now
Limited Edition: No

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