Introducing Frank Muller Cuts Through With The Vanguard Damascus Collection

Franck Muller’s high-tech Vanguard Damascus collection, previously available exclusively in Southeast Asia, has now landed in Australian boutiques. These twin models, the Vanguard Damascus and Damascus Racing, draw inspiration from the extraordinary material used to forge history's sharpest and strongest swords: Damascus steel. These Vanguards are forged from a blended steel alloy that lends the case and dials a dramatic, organically swirled finish reminiscent of ancient weapons.

Both the Vanguard and Vanguard Damascus Racing are three-hander time and date watches, with that mixture of steel alloys creating the signature swirling features across the case and dial, and even on the numerals of the Damascus Racing, which features a skeletonised dial and interior architecture.

In dimensions, these two Damascus editions differ very slightly from the other pieces in the Vanguard lineup, measuring in at 42.5mm wide with a lug-to-lug of 52.7mm and a 12.6mm thickness. They wear slightly smaller than their dimensions would lead you to believe due to the lugless construction and curved case that contours to the wrist, though the Racing’s crown guards and symmetrical ear on the left-hand side of the case do extend the width a little - these details are finished in black, though, so they camouflage next to the bright Damascus steel finish. Another added benefit of the Damascus steel case is enhanced anti-magnetic protection, further enhancing the Vanguard's sporty edge.

Both watches are powered by Franck Muller's in-house FM 800-DT movement that beats at 4 Hz and offers a 42-hour power reserve. The movement has been nicely finished and features Geneva striping on the rotor plate and some gorgeous perlage on the movement's mainplate. There’s also diamond-polishing on the bridge bevels and sunray finishing throughout different components. The Vanguard Damascus is priced at A$23,700, and the Vanguard Damascus Racing is priced at A$45,100.

Whilst in appearance the Vanguard Damascus resembles Damascus steel, the recipe for the alloy that makes up true, ancient Damascus steel has been lost for centuries. It takes its name from the city of Damascus, Syria, where it was forged and used to create incredibly sharp blades. To create the case and dial of these Vanguards, Franck Muller has developed a patented, secretive process whereby two steel alloy powders are layered together to create the swirling grain pattern. The components are then acid-etched, during which the two alloys react differently in the acid bath to reveal the contrasting alloy finish. One alloy reacts to the acid whilst the other doesn’t, creating the signature contrasting swirls.

In person and in natural light, there is a clear depth to the contrasting alloys. The polished alloy sits slightly proud of the more roughly finished alloy, casting small shadows over it. The rough alloy also catches and reflects light in a highly unique way that creates an impressive depth to the material. The Vanguard Damascus Racing is especially suited to the Damascus treatment. On this model, both the case and the numerals have been created in this 'Damascus steel', which contrasts nicely with the open dial and is complemented by a steel-toned date wheel.

The date wheel is actually quite notable: it consists of a single piece of steel with just the numerals and no background, held together with a sprue similar to the frame that holds the parts together in an Airfix model kit. The entire monobloc date numerals component is on show through the skeletonised dial, and at the centre sits a semi-transparent seconds subdial giving a peek of the movement behind. Look closely, and you’ll also catch that those seconds numerals are in reverse to their usual position: the seconds hand counterbalance doubling as a short seconds hand for accurate subdial readings. Attention to detail like this, odd at first glance but clever when understood, is exactly what makes Franck Muller such an interesting watchmaker.

Taking a closer look at the standard Vanguard Damascus, the black details on the rehaut, the numeral inserts and skeletonised lumed handset really help the tone of the Damascus steel to pop without it totally overwhelming the watch. They also lend some extra depth and three-dimensionality to the design, the whole package blending nicely into the black leather strap that’s also topped off with a matching Damascus steel buckle.

The Vanguard Damascus collection has been one of the more compelling releases from Franck Muller in recent years, so it's great to see them arrive in Australia. The brand excels when it experiments with unusual materials, whether that's cobalt, fibreglass composite or ceramic, and the Vanguard's sporty, broad tonneau case is the perfect canvas to highlight this unusual take on steel.

Brand: Franck Muller
Model: Vanguard Damascus, Vanguard Damascus Racing
Reference Number: V 43 SC DT DAMAS (NR), V 43 SC DT RCG SQT DAMAS (NR)
Diameter: 42.5mm
Lug-to-Lug: 52.7mm
Thickness: 12.6mm
Case Material: Damascus steel
Dial: Damascus steel dial (Vanguard Damascus), open with Damascus steel numerals (Vanguard
Lume: Super-LumiNova on hour, minute and second hands
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Grosgrain leather strap with Damascus steel folding buckle

Calibre: MVT FM 2800-SQ01, in-house
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: A$23,700 (Vanguard Damascus), A$45,100 (Vanguard Damascus Racing)
Availability: Now, exclusively available at Australian and South East Asian Franck Muller boutiques and authorised dealers
Limited Edition: No

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