Introducing Longines Angles For Authenticity With The Legend Diver 59

Most watch enthusiasts recognise that contemporary watch diameters are typically larger than they were even a few decades ago. For most of the 20th century, men wore watches 36mm in diameter or smaller - these days, 40mm feels pretty average, although we're seeing a bit of a swing away from larger diameters. With that in mind, it's generally accepted that for vintage reissues, making a watch smaller typically means making it more period-correct; however, Longines' latest Legend Diver has upped the diameter back to 42mm. What gives?

Well, that's because the new Longines Legend Diver 59 purports to be the most aesthetically faithful incarnation of this popular retro diver yet. The original ref. 7042 that the Legend Diver is modelled after was actually a 42mm watch (which, in 1959, was a truly whopping size). When the Legend Diver was first revived in 2007, it was also 42mm, and only shrunk down to 39mm when the line was refreshed in 2023, which Longines ironically chose to do to make the watch feel more vintage... Counter-intuitive, I know.

Anyway, if you're still with me, here's what you need to know: the Legend Diver 59's 42mm stainless steel "super-compressor" case houses a grained black dial with "light Old Radium" Super-LumiNova, resulting in a face that looks markedly more vintage than other Legend Divers in the range. Unlike the extant 42mm Legend Divers in Longines' catalogue as of publishing, the Legend Diver 59 lacks a date window - giving it a more symmetrical appearance and, you guessed it, making it more faithful to the original ref. 7042.

The most substantial update this special edition brings to the fore is that it's paired with Longines' nifty new Milanese bracelet, which debuted recently on the refreshed HydroConquest. Compared to the Milanese bracelet that's previously been paired with Legend Diver models, this bracelet is less bulky on the wrist and boasts on-the-fly micro-adjustment. The last few centimetres of the bracelet before the folding clasp consist of links with a stamped mesh pattern that can be removed to more accurately size the bracelet - the clasp is machined to a higher standard, too.

Under the hood beats the Longines-exclusive L888.6 calibre, which is based on the ETA A31.L11, which is itself based on the ETA 2892-A2. Compared to the latter, however, it boasts a much superior 72-hour power reserve, which it achieves partly by reducing the beat rate from 4 Hz to 3.5 Hz. This is the same movement that powers the 39mm Legend Diver range, and is chronometer certified by COSC.

For some enthusiasts, the idea of making a watch bigger to make it more period-correct might be a bit of a head fake, or at least, not what we typically expect these days. But don't get distracted by that: the Longines Legend Diver 59 is, fundamentally, a great retro-inspired dive watch. Thankfully, Longines' dedication to period-correctness starts and ends with this watch's appearance: at 300 metres water-resistant, it's more than double as water-resistant as the 1959 watch it's modelled after, and its movement is superior in just about every aspect.

Brand: Longines
Model: Legend Diver 59
Reference: L3.795.4.59.9
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 12.85mm
Lug to Lug: 50.1mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Dial: Black grained
Indexes: Four painted Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, eight painted indexes, light old radium Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 30 ATM/300m
Strap/Bracelet: Milanese mesh stainless steel bracelet with double-folding safety clasp and micro-adjustment, additional black Tropic-style rubber strap with stainless steel pin buckle, 22mm lug width

Calibre: L888.6, ETA A31.L11 base
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 70hrs
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 v/ph (3.5 Hz)
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC

Price: A$6,200
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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