Introducing Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colourful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them.

That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist.

At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the centre of a watch created intentionally for women, rather than adapting (or, as they say, "shrinking and pinking") an existing design.

The new Gondolo Ladies First looks back to that watch, but takes a different approach to the movement. The Ref. 7043 is powered by Patek Philippe's E15 quartz movement, a 15 x 13mm calibre measuring just 1.8mm thick. It provides time-only functionality and has an approximately three-year battery life. The brand describes this choice as part of its goal to create an "easy-to-wear" watch suited to modern women for everyday use.

The Gondolo collection itself dates to 1993, when Patek Philippe introduced the watches as a tribute to its historic relationship with the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau, which dates back to the early 20th century. It draws inspiration from those original Art Deco designs, with cushion, square, rectangular, and tonneau-shaped cases appearing over the years. Interestingly, the brand says a 1990s ladies' Gondolo served as inspiration for the Twenty~4.

The three diamond-set models feature multi-layered opaline dials with a wave pattern, gold hour markers, and a 108-diamond flange. They are offered in blue-grey, chestnut, and silvery opaline variations.

The Joaillerie models take the gem-setting up a notch with 687 brilliant-cut diamonds across the dial, case, and lugs, with twelve trapeze-cut gemstones used for the hour markers. The three versions pair blue topaz with a peacock-blue strap, green tsavorite with a green strap, and purple amethyst with a purple strap.

Two existing Haute Joaillerie Gondolo models, originally launched in 2016, also remain part of the broader Gondolo family. Those watches feature 552 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds alongside bracelets that incorporate Akoya pearls and additional diamonds.

Prices for the new collection start at A$58,600 for the more subdued models, A$107,400 for fully gem-set references, and extend to A$411,650 for the versions with the Akoya pearl-set bracelet. 

My colleague Mark was at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan, where he heard Thierry Stern talk about the growing interest Patek Philippe is seeing from women in complicated watches. With that in mind, I was surprised to see Patek Philippe revisit the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph with the new Gondolo, while choosing not to carry its chronograph into the watch.

But I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing. The more I thought about it, the more I wondered if Patek Philippe is thinking less about what the watch was and more about what it can represent now. The original Ladies First Chronograph recognised that women could be just as interested in complications as they were in the jewels surrounding them. This one seems to be making a different statement, putting women and their tastes back at the centre of the conversation.

And if the presentation in Milan did anything, it was to put women in the spotlight—literally. The watches were showcased on models, who Mark described as strutting and posing similar to how they would at a fashion show. The catwalk display built suspense until, eventually, six models stopped in place and allowed press to get close enough (somewhat awkwardly, Mark said) to really see and photograph the watches. Rather than display the Gondolo on a tray or in a case, Patek Philippe showed the watches on women, in motion, to demonstrate that watches can—and should—evolve alongside changing ideas of style. Which made me think about what's happening in fashion right now.

After years of quiet luxury and minimalism, colour and more maximalist styling are having a moment. The latest presentations at New York Fashion Week offered plenty of evidence that fashion is making room for colour, patterns, texture, and visual impact— signalling a growing appetite among women for clothes and accessories that make a statement.

This brings me to the idea of "wearability." A diamond- and gemstone-set watch isn't exactly what I'd call an everyday piece. But I think that women view wearability differently today than they did in recent years. A "wearable" women's watch is generally expected to be slim, discreet, and versatile enough to wear with any attire. But a watch doesn't have to disappear into an outfit for it to be wearable anymore.

The Gondolo's Joaillerie versions aren't for everyone, and that's ok—they're not trying to be. The purple (my favourite), green, and blue versions are meant to be noticed. They're expressions of taste rather than neutral accessories, and I personally find that refreshing.

Once I started to look at the collection that way, the variations started to make more sense to me. The three 7043 models offer a slightly restrained (if you can call it that) take, with diamonds only around the dial, whereas the 7043/250 models go all in. This distinction reminds me of how Patek Philippe approaches the Aquanaut Luce, where jewellery-focused models and more elaborate Haute Joaillerie or complicated pieces occupy different categories within its catalogue. 

As for the 7043 models with denim-pattern and grained calfskin straps, I think they strike a more casual note, which helps soften the dressier feel of the diamonds and precious metal. I'm not completely sold on the denim pattern, but I like that Patek Philippe is willing to experiment with giving the Gondolo a more relaxed, fashion-forward personality.

Not every woman wants a diamond- and gemstone-set watch. But the point isn't that every woman should. It's that Patek Philippe is creating space for a version of women's watchmaking that's more expressive. And who knows? Maybe we'll see complications make their way into the Gondolo again in the future.

Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Gondolo Ladies First
Reference Number: 7043
Diameter: 31 x 34.8 mm
Thickness: 8.03 mm
Case Material: Rose gold, white gold, or white and rose gold
Dial Colour: Chestnut opaline dial (ref. 7043R-001), blue-grey opaline dial (ref. 7043G-001), and a silvery opaline dial (ref. 7043GR-001).
Water Resistance: 30 m
Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin straps in chestnut denim, blue-grey denim, or beige grained calfskin for the three standard references; shiny alligator straps in peacock blue, green, or purple for the three Joaillerie models. Each features a coordinating precious-metal prong buckle.

Calibre: E15 quartz
Functions: Time only
Diameter: 15 x 13 mm
Thickness: 1.8 mm
Power Reserve: Approximately 3 years
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Jewels: 6

Price: A$58,600 (standard references), A$107,400 (fully gem-set references), A$411,650 (fully gem-set references with Akoya pearl-set bracelet)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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