Introducing Roger Dubuis Enters A New Phase With The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

Roger Dubuis' major 2025 Watches and Wonders release, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, signalled a change of direction for the Genevan watchmaker. After years of 42mm+ novelties dominating the range, here we had a 40mm Excalibur with a relatively restrained dial (well, as restrained as modern Roger Dubuis can be), sporting Mr Dubuis’ signature complication, namely biretrograde displays. Then, late last year, we saw the arrival of the Hommage La Placide, a 38mm perpetual calendar that felt like a much more faithful reinterpretation of the 'old' Roger Dubuis.

Watches and Wonders 2026 has seen Roger Dubuis build upon the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar with this, the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, which maintains that 40mm diameter and slightly more traditional aesthetic while introducing a "big four" complication.

Central to the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is an all-new in-house QP movement, the RD850. Unlike the RD1472 in the Hommage La Placide, which is an idiosyncratic combination of two new-old-stock Roger Dubuis movements (the RD14 automatic movement from 2004 plus the RD74 perpetual calendar module from 1999), the RD850 is a more straightforward evolution of the RD840 from last year's Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar. Impressively, despite the addition of a perpetual calendar, the RD850 shares the RD840's 60-hour automatically-wound power reserve.

But let's not get too bogged down in movement specs, because where the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar really impresses is in the looks department. Roger Dubuis was one of the first watchmakers to use mother-of-pearl in a men's watch, and this 2026 release continues RD's run of returning to MOP, with the rehaut, calendar displays and upper moonphase disc all imagined in the natural material, which has been dyed a moody "Astral Blue". The rehaut is particularly impressive: its top surface is azuraged, before it slopes down into the opened dial below.

At first glance, the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar offers a typically busy Roger Dubuis dial. However, it's actually a surprisingly legible take on the complication. Obviously, the two large elliptical retrograde day and date displays at 9 and 3 o'clock make it easy to figure out where you are in the week, but the month wheel is also surprisingly readable, with a thin pink gold bar jutting out at 11 o'clock underlining which month you're in.

During my stint at Time+Tide, my colleagues would always rib me for being something of a Roger Dubuis defender. And it's true - I think the brand is wildly underrated and misunderstood, even if many of its more outrageous creations are not to my personal taste. However, I think RD's mainline releases over the last 12 months demonstrate that the brand is changing. While I don't think we'll ever see a return to the same sort of Patek-inspired, ultra-traditional Genevan watchmaking that the brand inaugurated with, we are seeing some of those original influences filter through into the range, which is no doubt something that real enthusiasts really appreciate.

The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar continues that trend, blending those traditional influences with RD's modern sporty spirit. I mean, look at the specs alone: this is a 40mm QP that's water-resistant to 100 metres. That's a pretty rare and compelling combo! That's to say nothing of its aesthetics, which I also think are much more approachable than many RDs. The Astral Blue colour is a particularly nice tone which isn't done justice by renders: in the light, the MOP alternates between iridescent milkiness and night sky-like tones, giving the watch a real precious quality.

Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar
Reference: DBEX1178
Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: 18k pink gold
Dial: Open with dyed mother-of-pearl elements
Water Resistance: 10 ATM/100m
Strap/Bracelet: Blue calfskin leather strap with 18k pink gold folding clasp

Calibre: RD850, in house, Poinçon de Genève
Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with retrograde day and date, moonphase
Power Reserve: 60hrs
Winding: Automatic

Price: 181,500 AUD
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Limited to 188 pieces

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