Introducing The Second Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X

2026 is Ulysse Nardin’s Year of the Freak - 25 years since the release of Ulysse Nardin’s concept watch that absolutely changed the industry back in 2001. To mark the occasion, the Le Locle firm has unveiled a brand new generation of Freak X, debuting in three new references.

If you’ve not come across a Ulysse Nardin Freak before, it’s worth explaining how timekeeping works on this innovative yet unconventional watch. In most watches, the movement powers the hour and minute hands, but in the Freak, the movement is the minute hand, which Ulysse Nardin calls ‘The Baguette’. The movement rotates entirely every hour, with the point on the end of the movement serving as the minute hand. Below the movement is a separate disc, on which the hour hand is applied. First appearing in 2001, it’s one of the first architectural, avant-garde watch designs and a turning point in modern horology.

The Freak X is Ulysse Nardin’s entry-point into the Freak family, and this new generation's redesign centres around a new calibre in a smaller package, the case sized down across all dimensions. The diameter is down from 43mm to 41mm, the thickness from 13.9mm to 13.6mm (including crystal) and most impressively, the lug-to-lug, which has shrunk from 49.6mm to 47.3mm.

The case construction has also evolved dramatically from a modular construction to a monobloc single piece, which will not only make it stronger but also help reduce vibrations propagating throughout the case from the complex movement. Above that case also sits a brand-new glassbox sapphire crystal that does wonders to increase the depth of the watch and give more of a panoramic view of the movement in action.

Compared to the outgoing Freak X's calibre, the full-width rotor UN-230, the new Calibre UN-232 is an entirely different animal. It features a micro-rotor and Ulysse Nardin’s in-house DIAMonSIL diamond and silicon escapement with a silicon balance wheel and silicon hairspring, all crafted in-house. The addition of diamond increases the movement's resistance to mechanical stress and improves shock resistance, amounting to 5 new patents on top of the 35 existing Freak patents that make up the movement.

This is the first Freak to feature a micro-rotor, and it’s differentiated from most micro-rotors by a support bridge. That rose gold oscillating weight charges up a conventional mainspring to a perfectly satisfactory 72-hour power reserve, though it’s worth noting that's a modest power reserve for a Freak, given the original 2001 model featured a massive mainspring that spanned the width of the case and gave 168 hours.

Interestingly, Ulysse Nardin claims that each Freak X movement is entirely assembled by a single watchmaker in La Chaux-de-Fonds, as opposed to the production line manufacturing process used by a lot of brands for efficiency's sake. Given Ulysse Nardin’s haute horlogerie approach to the Freak, it’s exciting to see that they’re continuing with the romantic notion of a single watchmaker constructing each piece that’s synonymous with high-end watchmaking.

Across the board, the Freak X’s finishing has been elevated, featuring a combination of polishing, satin brushing and bevels across the case, movement and movement backplate that’s on view through a sapphire caseback.

Compared to other Ulysse Nardin Freaks, you’ll notice one big difference between the Freak X and its bigger siblings: the crown. The original Freak featured a crownless design where the watch was wound by rotating the caseback and set by rotating the bezel. The Freak X did away with this in favour of a traditional crown at 3 o’clock, but this new Freak X takes it further and introduces the first screw-down crown in the model's lineage. With it, this new generation boasts a water resistance of 100m.

This is a serious revelation for the Freak and a clear sign that Ulysse Nardin - a watchmaker that's always been intimately associated with the ocean - is serious in evolving it to truly be a daily-able watch, despite its revolutionary and complex movement architecture.

Furthering its usability, this new Freak X introduces a quick-release bracelet and strap system alongside a handsome new bracelet design that follows the finishing of the case and integrates nicely into the overall design. It also features a double micro-adjust system, providing 2mm on either side of the clasp for quick and easy resizing.

The new generation of Freak X is debuting with three references: a rose gold reference with a black dial featuring a rose gold-coloured movement on a leather strap, alongside two steel case references, the first reference with a monochromatic grey sandblasted dial on a leather strap, and the second a blue gradient saturn sunburst dial on a bracelet. However, there are 9 different strap configurations available for the Freak X range, spanning alligator, nubuck, grained and Saffiano leather; ballistic and smooth Delugs-sourced rubber, as well as the bracelet for the steel models.

Before digging into my thoughts on this new Freak X, I think it’s important to first explain just how important the Freak is to high-end watchmaking, because when it debuted in 2001, it stopped the industry in its tracks. Today, concept watches with architectural layouts, experimental movements, floating escapements and skeleton dials are relatively common - and not just in the high-end, trickling down to the more affordable end of the market with the likes of SpaceOne and Christopher Ward.

But in 2001, the Freak was the first - the first watch with a movement incorporating silicon, the first crownless watch, the first movement that was used in timetelling - it was the beginning of a new chapter in the story of horology. To take such a complex and avant-garde engineering achievement and refine its development to the point of daily wear and water resistance is no easy feat, so it’s admirable to see Ulysse Nardin achieve it with this new Freak X.

The original Freak X wound down the crazy levels a little in comparison to its bigger siblings, but in doing so, made the watch much more wearable. This new generation has taken it even further. We still have the trademark movement and time-telling design, but with the reduced case size, micro-rotor, improved shock protection, bracelet quick release, diverse strap options and screw-down crown, it’s going to prove much more daily-able and an easier sell to those curious about a Freak but on the fence about it.

The updates to the case dimensions bring the Freak X in line with changing tastes favouring smaller watches, and the Freak’s always been an eyeful of a design, so a smaller presence on the wrist will make it much more wearable, especially in the monochromatic grey colourway. For me (and many others, I’m sure), the biggest upgrade is the improved water resistance and screw-down crown. To be able to wear a Ulysse Nardin Freak down to the beach and into the water is going to be a strange experience, but the new water resistance and robustness are big steps in transforming this high-end engineering trophy watch into something you can conceivably wear in a lot more environments.

The grey dial in particular is a bit under the radar, with a simple sandblasted dial plate below the movement and hour markers. Especially paired with the steel bracelet or optional rubber straps, it’ll dress down even further for more frequent wear in less elevated occasions.

I’m sure some will mourn the loss of titanium cases in the lineup as the standard Freak X shifts to stainless steel as its flagship metal, but given Ulysse Nardin’s penchant for different case materials, I doubt we’ll be waiting long to see some new dial colours and case materials in this new generation of Freak X.

Brand: Ulysse Nardin
Model: Freak X
Reference Number: 2323-500-1A/0A, 2323-500-3A/7A and 2322-500-2A/1A
Diameter: 41mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or rose gold
Dial Colour: Grey sandblasted, blue gradient satin sunburst or black sandblasted
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova hands
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel with deployant clasp, leather strap options, white rubber (Delugs) and rubber ballistic straps

Calibre: UN-232, in-house
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Micro-rotor automatic
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: US$41,200 in grey, US$42,400 in blue, US$64,000 in gold
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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