Introducing Vacheron Constantin unveils its thinnest Overseas yet, courtesy of all-new micro-rotor calibre

What We Know

2025 was an enormous year for Vacheron Constantin, with the Holy Trinity watchmaker having marked its 270th anniversary in grandiose style. Chief among last year’s celebratory releases was the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch in the world… Which itself was a follow-up to Vacheron Constantin’s Berkley Grand Complication of 2024, the world’s most complicated watch full stop.

However, in 2026, Vacheron Constantin has gone the opposite route, in a sense, with its headline Watches and Wonders novelty, the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V/210P–H028. Rather than chasing dozens of complications, it’s pared things back, offering a piece with just an hour and minutes hand – an ultra-restrained take on the iconic luxury sports watch. But simple this reference is not, as it represents the thinnest take on the Overseas formula yet, debuting the Maison’s first-ever micro-rotor calibre – a landmark development.

The movement in question is the Calibre 2550, which is the fruit of 7 years of research and development, and is positioned as a successor to the historically significant Calibre 1120. First introduced in 1968, VC itself describes the 1120 as the reference ultra-thin movement within its catalogue… So that’s one hell of a mantle for the 2550 to take up.

As you’d expect from Vacheron Constantin, the Calibre 2550 is quite a pretty movement, with the platinum micro-rotor positioned at 3 o’clock (or should that be 9 o’clock?) and featuring the compass motif we’re used to seeing on Overseas rotors. Sporting the Poinçon de Genève, there’s tight Côtes de Genève and crisp bevels across its bridges plus alternating sizes of perlage for the eye to enjoy.

But it’s the specs of the 2550 that are particularly impressive. Crucially, it offers an 80-hour power reserve at 3 Hertz, achieved in part by a novel suspended double barrel. VC explains that the 2550’s two superimposed barrels pivot on a single post fixed to the barrel bridge, allowing the removal of one of the barrel covers to save space… like a double cheeseburger of barrels.

The end result is that the ref. 2500V measures up at 39.5mm in diameter and 7.35mm thick. In comparison, the highly coveted Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2000V, which was first introduced in 2016 and is powered by the Calibre 1120, measures 40mm by 7.5mm. That means the new ref. 2500V is thinner while also offering double the power reserve and a higher beat rate.

Its impressive thinness, however, is offset by serious heft, with this inaugural Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin sporting a case and bracelet made of 950 platinum, just like the micro-rotor that’s the star of the show. Finally, the platinum case is contrasted by a rich salmon dial.

What We Think

Vacheron Constantin has a long history of producing ultra-thin watches, but it’s a brand that’s more commonly associated with peripheral rotors (indeed, it’s one of only a handful of watchmakers that make them) rather than micro-rotors. But who said you can’t teach an old dog new tricks?

Indeed, it’s been something of an aberration that VC hasn’t had a micro-rotor in its range, especially when you consider the proliferation of luxury sports watches with micro-rotors: the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto, and, of course, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712.

However, the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V/210P–H028 is appreciably thinner than all those watches. It also wears better than all of them, in my opinion at least: the third-gen Overseas’ bracelet is pretty hard to beat.

Can we also have a moment for its case and dial, too? We haven’t had a salmon dial in the Overseas range since the first generation, which I’m so glad this rectifies (even if this is a limited edition). Salmon plus platinum is also a winning combination that just oozes old-school excess.

I’m on the record as being a massive fan of the Overseas, and the Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is perfectly calibrated to my tastes. My only criticism is that it’s a limited edition of just 255 pieces, which I suspect VC will have no problem selling. Fingers crossed we see the Calibre 2550 appear in other references soon.

The Basics

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin
Reference: 2500V/210P–H028
Diameter: 39.5mm
Thickness: 7.35mm
Case Material: 950 platinum
Dial: Salmon-lacquered, sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished outer seconds track
Indexes: Applied 18k gold, blue Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 5 ATM/50m
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated 950 platinum Maltese cross-link bracelet, 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort adjustment system. Additional beige rubber strap.

The Movement

Calibre: 2550
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 80hrs
Winding: Automatic, micro-rotor
Frequency: 21,600 v/ph (3Hz)

Pricing & Availability

Price: 181,000 AUD
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Limited to 255 pieces

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