Introducing Zenith up the luxe factor with the G.F.J. Tantalum, their first-ever tantalum watch

What We Know

Watches and Wonders 2025 saw Zenith add a new collection to its catalogue in the form of the G.F.J.: a traditionally-styled dress watch powered by a modern update of the legendary calibre 135 – Zenith’s other famous movement alongside the better-known El Primero - which won Zenith 235 chronometry prizes before the so-called quartz crisis. The inaugural G.F.J. reference was a sumptuous statement of intent, pairing a platinum case wth a dial made from lapis lazuli, dyed mother-of-pearl and brick-shaped guilloche, meant to evoke the exterior of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle.

Watches and Wonders 2026 has seen Zenith expand the G.F.J. collection with two more variants: a yellow gold model with a jasper “bloodstone” dial, and the focus of today’s article, a tantalum model with an onyx dial, which represents Zenith’s first-ever tantalum watch.

Tantalum is a notoriously difficult metal to work with. Basically, all the things that make it a desirable watch case material make it a nightmare to fabricate with: it’s heavy, very hard, scratch-resistant and inert, while also being very ductile with a very high melting point. This means that when it’s machined, it builds up a lot of heat which it struggles to dissipate, which wears out tools. Also, because it’s so ductile, it tends to stretch rather than shear, making it gum up tools like clay. Being able to make a watch case from tantalum is an enormous flex, which is perhaps why Zenith thought it’d join the rather exclusive club of watchmakers using the metal.

One of tantalum’s other characteristics is its unusual, dark blue/violet hue – there’s really no other metal that looks like it. Fittingly, Zenith has complemented the G.F.J. Tantalum’s umbrous and luxurious case with a jet-black onyx stone dial, which is once again punctuated by a black-dyed mother-of-pearl small seconds and black brick guilloche around the minute track, although this time, the G.F.J. forgoes indices in favour of baguette-cut diamonds.

Flip the G.F.J. Tantalum around, and you’ll find that its calibre 135 has been given a dark ruthenium treatment to match its tantalum case, with the machined brick motif found on the platinum model’s bridges instead giving way to a more classic array of cotes de Genève. Compared to the historical calibre 135, the examples found in the new G.F.J. range boast a 72-hour hand-wound power reserve (almost double the original’s 40 hours), hacking seconds and are regulated to ±2 seconds per day, certified by COSC. However, it still retains the OG’s signature double arrow-shaped regulator, Breguet overcoil, 2.5 Hertz frequency, and oversized 13mm balance wheel – a particular visual treat for those used to smaller balances.

The Zenith G.F.J. Tantalum is a limited edition of just 20 pieces, available now to pre-order through Zenith boutiques and e-commerce, and is priced at 129,800 AUD.

What We Think

I’m on the record as being a massive fan of the G.F.J. (including on the HODINKEE Podcast!) I’m also a bit of a sucker for tantalum watches. The juxtaposition between its practicality and its heft, as well as its rarity because of how difficult it is to work with, is indescribably appealing, not to mention its dark grey hue.

So how do you improve upon perfection? Like this, I suppose. Part of the G.F.J.’s appeal is in its stealth wealth factor, and while tantalum is slightly more overt than platinum (although it’s also easily mistaken for titanium), it’s still a very understated flex. And while I’m a fan of the original’s lapis lazuli dial and its commitment to Zenith’s signature blue, the darker colour scheme of this tantalum edition makes it much more sartorially versatile, with those diamond indices providing that hit of glam.

To be clear, I’m not implying that the G.F.J. Tantalum is by any means a perfect watch. For instance, I’m not a big fan of the blue nubuck alligator leather that it’s paired with as standard – I think the colour and texture don’t mesh well with its ultra-clean aesthetic – but thankfully, the watch ships with both an additional glossy black alligator and grey calfskin strap too, so that’s easily rectified. I’m more disappointed that Zenith has ditched the dial-matching brick-motif finishing found on the inaugural G.F.J.’s movement for côtes de Genève, which is much less distinctive. (The darker ruthenium finish is nice, though.)

I’m just surprised it’s taken this long for Zenith to produce a tantalum watch. Zenith is no stranger to innovative, hard-to-machine case materials: they have played with sapphire, ceramic, palladium, aluminium, carbon fibre, so tantalum was the logical next step, Zenith's Chief Products Officer, Romain Marietta, told me on the ground at Watches and Wonders. If only it came on a full tantalum bracelet…

Brand: Zenith
Model: G.F.J.
Reference: 98.1865.0135/21.C205
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.5mm
Lug to Lug: 45.75mm
Case Material: Tantalum
Dial: Brick-pattern guilloché outer ring with onyx centre and mother-of-pearl small seconds counter
Indexes: Applied baguette-cut diamonds
Water Resistance: 5 ATM/50m
Strap/Bracelet: Blue nubuck alligator leather strap with titanium pin buckle; additional black alligator leather strap and grey calfskin strap included

Calibre: 135
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Power Reserve: 72hrs
Winding: Manual winding
Frequency: 18,000 v/ph (2.5Hz)
Chronometer Certified: COSC -4/+6 seconds per day

Price: 129,800 AUD / 73,900 CHF / 82,700 EUR / 83,400 USD
Availability: Open to pre-orders
Limited Edition: Limited to 20 pieces

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