Introducing Atelier de Chronométrie's New Chronograph Caliber Is A Stunning Return To The Past

If you're following artisanal watchmaking with all the flash and hype of the independent space, you're forgiven for missing Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie. Their watches don't often show up on social media, largely because they are entirely bespoke, one-off commissions based on the various architectures they offer. But we've been covering them since 2016, and the product (and potentially their clients' tastes) has gotten better and better. Outstanding, in fact. That's how I'd frame their new AdC16, the company's first two-counter chronograph. If you don't like the design, that's fine—you can customise it however you like—but top-down, movement-to-specs, the watch is really attractive to a vintage lover like myself. 

Atelier de Chronométrie allows customisation of the case and dial, as well as finishing on the movement (a variation of which they are going to share soon, based on this movement), but in this case, they've made a really nice, compact, 36mm Calatrava-style case that is reminiscent (with the dial) of a Vacheron Constantin 4072. The case is two-tone yellow gold and steel and has a black galvanic gilt-style dial (though not actually done the original way, as the press release states; more likely pad-printed), with yellow gold applied markers and hands.

The kicker is really the movement. The base design is the venerable Valjoux 23, but they've redesigned the shape of several bridges and levers while trying to keep the entire gear train feeling open yet vintage (though the oversized jewel in the chronograph bridge feels a bit too modern). Some of the shapes are inspired by late 19th- and early 20th-century makers who drew off shapes of animals, they say, but I just think it looks nice. They've added an instantaneous jumping minute counter (no small feat), used a classic but well-made clutch, and improved the balance wheel and escapement, paying homage to marine chronometers.

As I mentioned, they're playing with different finishing techniques in the future, but here you see palladium-plated frosted bridges and mainplate, black polish, anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, and étirage des flancs. The chronograph runner and minute-jumping system bridges (as well as the escape wheel and seconds wheel bridges) are all made by hand, according to AdC. The folks at Atelier de Chronométrie were kind enough to send some behind-the-scenes photos of the production of the watch. While they're quite low-resolution, they give you a sense of the attention to detail.

All orders are done based on client requests, so prices vary. Of course, with a bespoke piece of this quality, the price isn't low—€140,000 (~A$225,200) to €150,000 (~A$241,299) is what the brand quoted— and their order sheet is full until 2030. But among collectors that I admire, this is a company people have been watching for a while, and rightfully so. 

Obviously, I'm a fan of AdC. So is Ben, who loved this new release. Hell, so is a friend of mine who designs movements for a living and loved the way they've reinterpreted the Valjoux 23. That said, with AdC's releases, you have to put some of the aesthetics aside. I think the black gilt-style dial is a bit bold with the case and bracelet (which AdC also handmade and is known for), but maybe the saturation is a bit more toned down in person. I really liked their two-counter rattrapante from a few years back, and I could imagine this looking great with a Patek 1579 or a cornes de vache-style version with a two-tone silver sector dial. 

Some of the movement finishing is a bit too modern for me as well—a bit like chasing the modern indie hype—so if I were ordering, I'd look for less graining and something more traditional, but I find it hard to fault this as a complete package. The only current production reference I could compare it to in the indie space is Rexhep's recent launch, which is more technical, novel, and very price-competitive, but both can certainly coexist.

Brand: Atelier de Chronométrie
Model: AdC16
Diameter: 36mm
Thickness: Not provided
Case Material: Unique specifications; this example is in a stainless steel and 18k yellow gold case
Dial Colour: Unique specifications; this has a galvanic gilt-style dial
Indexes: Printed and applied
Lume: None
Water Resistance: Not shared
Strap/Bracelet: Black leather strap with stainless steel buckle; Handmade two-tone beads-of-rice bracelet (stainless steel and 18k yellow gold)

Calibre: Calibre S440 (Valjoux 23 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph with 30-minute counter
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Jewels: 20
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Palladium-plated frosted bridges and mainplate, black polish, anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, étirage des flancs

Price: €140,000 (~A$225,200) to €150,000 (~A$241,299) based on customisations
Availability: On order, with the order sheet full until 2030
Limited Edition: Bespoke orders

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