Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding & Complete Calendar

The Fiftysix made its debut in 2018 and has since represented the entry point into the world of Vacheron Constantin. As the model’s name implies, its design was inspired by the historically significant ref. 6073 from 1956, which sported lugs shaped like the watchmaker’s Maltese Cross emblem, a boxed crystal, and was one of the first Vacheron Constantin watches with an automatic movement – all features continued by the modern-day Fiftysix collection. 
 

Vacheron Constantin has doubled down on that mid-century inspiration for its latest two incarnations of the Fiftysix, which sees the model slip on some two-tone dials that look straight out of a black and white photograph from the era.

There’s a Self-Winding three-hander with date and a Complete Calendar on offer here, both of which have 40mm stainless steel cases and monochromatic colour schemes. What’s clever here is that Vacheron Constantin has alternated between the tones for the two models: the former goes light grey, dark grey, light grey for its outer track, inner track and dial centre, whereas the latter is the inverse.

Both are available now and retail for A$22,300 for the Self-Winding and A$52,500 for the Complete Calendar.

Vacheron Constantin has focused so much attention in recent years on its more complicated, higher-price-point offerings that the Fiftysix has felt like the one collection that could do with some more focused attention. To that end, it’s great to see it get some time in the sun, while also experimenting with a jauntier aesthetic that wouldn’t fit as well within the Patrimony or Traditionelle collections. 

I’m a fan of a sector dial, and when it comes to these two-tone ones on these Fiftysixes, I particularly like that Vacheron Constantin has inverted the shades of grey between the two. The triple calendar is the strongest of the two aesthetically as well as functionally: it’s a snappy smart-casual complete calendar that feels distinct in the watchmaker’s current lineup.

My biggest point of criticism is one that is not unique to these new releases – namely that the three-hander Fiftysix's movement, the ValFleurier-produced calibre 1326, isn't Geneva Seal-certified. (The calibre 2460 QCL/1 in the complete calendar is, however). I understand the level of investment and time that goes into the Geneva Seal certification may mean offering it across every Vacheron Constantin collection might not be feasible, but in the context of all other references within the current catalogue receiving the higher standard of finishing, it would be a treat to see it available within the Fiftysix too.

All considered, it’s great to see Vacheron Constantin turning their attention back to the range where many collectors first experience the brand, especially with a fresh design that brings a touch of smart-casual style that I know so many are looking for today. With options of either the time-only or the more complicated complete calendar, there’s also a choice for those on the hunt for their first watch from the watchmaker.

Brand: Vacheron Constantin 
Model: Fiftysix Self-Winding, Fiftysix Complete Calendar Reference Numbers: 4600E/000A-H177, 4000E/000A-H178 
Diameter: 40mm 
Thickness: 9.6mm (Self-Winding), 11.6mm (Complete Calendar) 
Case Material: Stainless steel
Sapphire Crystal: Yes, front and back 
Dial: Two-toned grey double gradient dial, 18ct white gold hands and applied indices
Lume: Yes, blue emission Super-LumiNova 
Water Resistance: 30 metres 
Strap: Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather with calfskin lining and ecru stitching, stainless-steel folding clasp

Calibre: 1326 (Self-Winding), 2460 QCL/1 (Complete Calendar) 
Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, date (Self-Winding), pointer date, day/month displays, moonphase (Complete Calendar only)
Power Reserve: 48 hours (Self-Winding), 40 hours (Complete Calendar) 
Winding: Automatic 
Frequency: 4 Hz 
Additional Details: 2460 QCL/1 is Geneva Seal certified

Price: A$22,300 (Fiftysix Self-Winding), A$52,500 (Fiftysix Complete Calendar)
Availability: Now 
Limited Edition: No 
 
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