Introducing A New Generation Of Smaller Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate & Phases De Lune Models

In November last year, Blancpain debuted a new generation of Villeret Ultraplates, its super-slim three-handed dress watch with date, in 40mm. Now, that refresh has reached the 38mm collection with some new dial colours and a very good-looking boutique exclusive. Alongside the new Ultraplates are two new Villeret Phases de Lune in 29.2mm, which, in the same vein as the new Ultraplates, brings the Phases de Lune’s sub-30mm collection in line with the recent updates to the larger references.

Blancpain has introduced four new references with the Ultraplate 38 mm: three in steel and one in 18ct red gold. The updates consist of a series of design tweaks that in isolation, are subtle, but amount to a big difference. The biggest change you’ll notice is that the font used for the applied 18ct white, red or yellow gold hour markers has been simplified and stripped of its tapered-in, knucklebone shape in favour of a cleaner, less playful sans-serif typeface. Blancpain’s signature JB logo, short for the brand's founder Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, has been applied to the dial in place of the 12 o’clock numeral.

Across the collection, the proportions of the applied markers and Blancpain logo have been rebalanced to improve the dial's layout, whilst the handset has been slightly reshaped and is inlaid with a sliver of applied Super-LumiNova inside the hours and minute hands. The date window has also been slightly enlarged alongside a larger crown, a more delicately reshaped double-stepped bezel and subtly redesigned lugs.

Taking a look at the steel-cased references, the gold-toned opaline dial with applied white gold markers is the simplest, most classic dress watch, and is executed very nicely. The opaline dial has an almost eggshell tone to it, which is very nicely rendered and looks great with the white metal applied markers and case. The two-tone shifts gears a little with yellow gold markers and hands: this one, whilst not limited, is a Blancpain boutique exclusive (something Australians will be able to access soon as Blancpain is opening its first standalone boutique in the region in Sydney later this year).

The third is a new dial for the Villeret collection, a sunburst salmon with white gold markers and hands. The fourth reference and only precious metal case in the new collection is an 18ct red gold example with the same gold-toned opaline dial seen on the aforementioned steel models, but with a matching red gold handset and applied markers.

The 38mm Villeret Ultraplate features the same movement as its outgoing version, the calibre 1150, an automatic movement with a silicon hairspring and a 100-hour power reserve. It’s the same movement used in Blancpain's 38mm Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe dive watches, and in the Villeret Ultraplate, which features Côtes de Genève finishing and a new skeletonised gold rotor showing the JB signature: yellow gold on the steel models, and red gold on the red gold model.

Taking a look at the two new Villeret Phases de Lune models, much like the Ultraplates, they've been brought in line to match the larger 33.2mm model that was updated recently. In doing so, Blancpain have taken the 29.2mm Phases de Lunes and done away with the stark white dial for the new gold-toned opaline dial. It retains the diamond-set hour markers, but gains the JB signature at 12 and the signature blue serpentine pointer-date hand.

Like the Ultraplate, the aforementioned small tweaks to the case and crown are also in place. The moonphase is where the biggest finishing improvements are, the aperture being slightly enlarged to show off a new blue ceramic moonphase disc with an applied and domed satin brushed white gold moon. This attention to detail in the moonphase, matching the pointer-date hand in colour, further shows off the depth and level of finishing in this new piece.

Two references are available in steel and 18ct red gold respectively, both with diamond-set bezels. It’s worth noting that the existing 29.2mm Phases de Lune models were available without diamond bezels, though I doubt we’ll be waiting long for Blancpain to roll this updated generation of Phases de Lune out in more variations.

Powering the new Phases de Lune is the Blancpain calibre 913QL, the same movement as the previous generation. Like the movement in the Ultraplate, it’s an automatic calibre equipped with a silicon balance spring finished with Côtes de Genève, though it has a smaller power reserve of 40 hours. It's worth noting that this movement also allows the wearer to adjust the calendar at any time without damaging it. Like the Villeret Ultraplate, it also has a sapphire caseback and skeletonised gold rotor with the JB signature.

As consumer tastes have begun to swing back towards smaller watches, we’ve observed that the Swatch Group’s brands have been amongst the most reticent to offer smaller watches (Omega is the prime example, whose men’s collection features nothing under 38mm) - so it’s promising to see Blancpain prioritising some variety in experimental dial colours and boutique exclusive models in this smaller size. It's particularly nice, with the Phases de Lunes, seeing Blancpain apply the same attention to detail to their smaller references as they do to their larger ones - it's exactly what buyers have come to expect. That beautiful moonphase especially stands out.

It also pays tribute to the Villeret’s heritage of smaller cases, which Blancpain has specifically pointed to as motivation behind the investment of effort in 38mm cases. From when the Villeret made its debut in 1983 (it wouldn’t be titled as such until 2002, but the design lineage is there) to the end of the decade, the line had amassed all six of the masterpiece complications, all in 34mm cases. Blancpain have gone to lengths to highlight that this new chapter of the Villeret is intended to evoke this history of understatement and elegant proportions.

I think the new 38mm Villeret is much better proportioned than the previous generation, the small changes really adding up to create a much more balanced design. Comparing it to its larger sibling, it’s the right scale for a three-handed, traditionally designed, dressy watch, especially with the white dial references, which wear larger than their measurements might suggest.

Of the new Ultraplates, the boutique-exclusive two-tone would be my pick. Generally, I’m not a big fan of two-tone dials in steel cases, but when the yellow gold hands and markers are paired with the gold-toned opaline, almost eggshell-looking dial, everything just aligns perfectly. The olive-green nubuck leather strap is the icing on the cake.

One criticism, however. With the applied JB logo taking the place of the 12 o’clock numeral, there are now three JB logos on the dial - one at 12, one printed in the Blancpain logo and one in the seconds hand counter-balance. That’s also not counting the JB applied to the crown or in the skeletonised rotor. I like Jehan-Jacques Blancpain as much as the next guy, but I think three JBs on a dial is pushing the branding a little too hard.

I like the attention to detail of dial-coloured date wheel backgrounds across all models, and the tool-free quick-release straps and folding deployant clasps are a great move, especially for enthusiasts who want to quickly swap straps without dealing with the normal fiddly process to then also fit the Blancpain deployant or pin buckle. Whilst the Ultraplates are paired with a foldover deployant clasp, the Phases de Lunes are on a simple Blancpain pin buckle: given the price premium the Phases de Lune commands over the Ultraplate, I would have expected the deployant on these references too.

Brand: Blancpain
Model: Villeret Ultraplate, Villeret Phase de Lune
Reference Number: 6224N 1135 55B, 6224N 1142 55B, 6224NA 1142 55B, 6224N 3642 55B (Ultraplates); 6106N 2987 55A, 6106N 4687 55A (Phases de Lune)
Diameter: 38mm (Ultraplate), 29.2 (Phases de Lune)
Lug-to-Lug: 43.35mm (Ultraplate), 35.12mm (Phases de Lune)
Lug Width: 20mm (Ultraplate), 15mm (Phases de Lune)
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18ct red gold
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Dial Colour: Gold-toned opaline or sunburst salmon (steel Ultraplate only)
Indexes: Applied 18ct white gold, red gold or yellow gold
Lume: Super-LumiNova hands
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Beige, anthracite, honey or olive-green nubuck leather (Ultraplate), blue or honey alligator (Phases de Lune)

Calibre: 1150 (Ultraplate), 913QL (Phases de Lune)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date (Ultraplate); hours, minutes, seconds, date, moonphase (Phases de Lune)
Power Reserve: 100 hours (Ultraplate), 40 hours (Phases de Lune)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3 Hz)
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: CHF 6,900 in steel, CHF 19,700 in 18ct red gold (Ultraplate); CHF 15,300 in steel, CHF 21,900 in 18ct red gold (Phases de Lune)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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