Introducing The Piaget Andy Warhol “Camouflage” Limited Edition

Ever since its official renaming in 2024, the Andy Warhol collection has been Piaget’s proving ground for fine finishing and métiers d'art, keeping the releases limited to one per year. The latest addition is no different. Inspired by Warhol’s 1986 Camouflage series of self-portraits, Piaget translates the hues of yellow, green and blue onto the dials of the artist’s eponymous watch using several types of hardstone and gold, before encasing the whole thing in a multi-stepped and cushion-shaped white gold case.

When it comes to multi-coloured marquetry dials executed in any combination of stone, Piaget is almost unparalleled, being one of the maisons that popularised the trend in the 1960s, and continuing the tradition ever since. For the Warhol Camouflage, Piaget’s artisan masons chose sodalite and turquoise, the former used for the darker blue hues, and the latter for the splashes of light blue. In quite a unique change, the brighter yellow colours are executed in satin-finished yellow gold and polished rose gold. Altogether, each dial numbers 27 tiny pieces, joined with virtually no gaps and uninterrupted by any errant details, apart from simple Piaget branding at 12 o’clock and white gold dauphine hands.

The case is similarly toned down in what is sure to be an effort to let the dial breathe as much as possible. Hewn from white gold, it’s been finished with both sunray brushing and polishing, with the latter reserved for the four steps that lead from the flat top bezel to the mid-case. A vertically-brushed white gold caseback screws onto the case, completing the rounded square pebble shape of the case, which measures in at 45mm across and only 8.08mm in height, while also retaining 30m of water-resistance and a full-rotor automatic calibre.

Speaking of the movement, the Andy Warhol is powered by Piaget’s in-house 501P1, a minute 20.8mm diameter movement that’s the higher-rate follow-up to the 530P introduced in 2020. Being only 3.63mm in thickness, its proportions are very much in line with Piaget’s long-standing ideology of producing ultra-thin calibres. Compared to its predecessors, it now beats at the standard 4Hz, for up to 40 hours of timekeeping when fully wound.

The way that Piaget approaches their Warhol executions is best explained by this one-liner from Stéphanie Sivrière, the brand’s artistic director: “Our objective is to take inspiration from Andy Warhol’s creations without strictly reproducing each of his works on a dial.” I do not doubt that Piaget could easily call up Anita Porchet and get her to do a stunning miniature of one of Warhol’s works (and if that indeed happens for one of the upcoming models, amazing) - but I’m glad to see that their approach thus far has been less literal and more of a subtle nod.

The Camouflage series in particular lends itself well to a watch dial, as the bold, primary colours are a great match for the stone Piaget chose. I do love that they’re also using gold, but I can’t help but wonder whether they could’ve picked out a yellow or purple stone to make them even more complex.

Just like Warhol’s very own reference 15102, the current line-up is pretty sizable at 45mm across and 43mm lug-to-lug, but it’s one of those watches that wears nowhere near as bulky as its on-paper dimensions suggest, especially once you factor in the 8mm thickness. To simplify it, it’s a cuff-like experience not unlike the one you’d get from something like a Bulgari Octo Finissimo, but sans bracelet - and in this case (pardon the pun), that’s a good thing.

Something that I know Piaget could definitely pull off - seeing as some of their vintage watches have had it - is a crown on the back of the watch. I know it’s not as easy to use or implement as a standard 3 o’clock crown, but this is such a lovely case, and it would look spectacular if it had a completely hidden crown. And if you’re thinking that it would be a pain to set the time, just remember, Warhol wasn’t one to set his watches, either.

Brand: Piaget
Model: Andy Warhol Camouflage
Reference: G0A51242
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 8.08mm
Lug-to-Lug: 43mm
Case Material: 18k white gold
Dial Colour: Sodalite, turquoise, rose gold, yellow gold marquetry
Crystal: Sapphire front
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Strap: Blue alligator leather

Calibre: 501P1
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz
Diameter: 20.8mm (9  lignes)
Thickness: 3.63mm
Jewels: 23 jewels
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: Upon request
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 86 pieces

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