Introducing The Franck Muller Vanguard Slim Amador Montes

Some brands are synonymous with a certain shape: MB&F capitalises on what three dimensions can offer, Cartier has its discreet Tank, and Franck Muller is known for its tonneau cases. With generous sizes and larger-than-life numerals, Muller’s ethos echoes the early 2000s, when bold forms and bright colours were the name of the game. Still, as younger clientele seek more modestly proportioned cases, the watchmaker’s latest collaborative piece finds that sweet spot. Boasting an enigmatic dial and a cheeky pink crown set into that familiar case shape, it’s a watch that has the potential to rekindle the brand’s flames with a growing community of art-loving collectors.

The Vanguard Slim Amador Montes arrives as a four-piece limited edition collaboration (offered in 41mm and 35mm sizes in both steel and rose gold) with the eponymous Oaxacan visual artist, whose success has been built on 25 years of work across more than 130 exhibitions across the Americas, Europe, and Asia. Working with Franck Muller in Geneva, rather than simply printing a design onto a dial, the project pulls specific motifs from Montes’ work into the watch, with the clearest device being the crane fly - a recurring presence in the artist's paintings - whose wings have been reinterpreted as the hands of the watch.

The dial itself is a camel-coloured, micro-blasted surface scattered with illustrations and personal references from the artist, while the pink crown introduces one of his signature colours. The beige colouring pairs well with the tone-matched rubber strap, especially the 35mm rose gold version, while the larger 41mm steel case offers a higher-contrast backdrop for the impressively detailed illustrations.

This is a Slim Vanguard, so the proportions are gentler than the brand’s typical maximalism, even if the 41mm tonneau case wears larger than a traditionally circular watch. For me, the 35mm size - just 8.7mm thick - is the more compelling version of the two, even if some of Montes’s most verdant collectors might feel his art deserves a larger canvas. Both watches run the in-house automatic MVT FM 708 with 38 hours of power reserve, and both use Franck Muller’s screw-fixed integrated strap system rather than conventional spring bars.

The edition totals 60 pieces, with 40 in steel (30 pieces in the 41mm size and 10 pieces in the 35mm size) and 20 in rose gold (10 pieces in each size). As far as pricing, the stainless steel in 35mm is CHF 14,600 (~A$25,000), and the 41mm is CHF 14,800 (~A$25,300), while rose gold in 35mm is CHF 23,000 (~A$39,400) and the 41mm is CHF 23,800 (~A$40,700). Each watch ships with two interchangeable straps - one pink and one camel - and an artist-designed presentation box that carries the Montes aesthetic inside and out.

For me, the aesthetics and colouring of the watch are intensely appealing, right down to its pink-splattered, micro-blasted arty dial and smooth shape. I also love how well Franck Muller's curves sit on a wrist, including my own, but the 35mm size wears large and the 41mm, for me at least, may tip into being oversized.

Clearly, Franck Muller’s team planned the 35mm size as a lower-production version to meet what they expected to be lower demand, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the smaller size sells out faster than the 41mm size. I see the 41mm version as likely being the favourite of the dyed-in-the-wool Muller collectors, but at a time when almost every watchmaker is seeking success in new demographics, the possible risk of flipping the production numbers of each size would be one worth taking.

Brand: Franck Muller
Model: Vanguard Slim Amador Montes “The Art of Time”
Case Width: 35mm or 41mm
Thickness: 8.7mm (35mm case) and 9.1mm (41mm case)
Case Materials: Stainless steel, or solid 18k rose gold with caramel case-side inserts
Dial: Camel-coloured, micro-blasted finish, with illustrations and personal references by Amador Montes
Hands: Crane fly wing-inspired
Crown: Pink
Strap: Integrated, screw-fixed (no spring bars); two interchangeable straps supplied, one pink and one camel
Box: Special presentation box designed by Amador Montes

Calibre: MVT FM 708, in-house
Winding: Automatic
Components: 136
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: Stainless steel in 35mm is CHF 14,600 (~A$25,000), and 41mm is CHF 14,800 (~A$25,300); rose gold in 35mm is CHF 23,000 (~A$39,400), and 41mm is CHF 23,800 (~A$40,700)
Availability: 60 pieces in total, comprising 10 x 35mm in rose gold, 10 x 35mm in steel, 30 x 41mm in steel, and 10 x 41mm in 18K rose gold

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