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There are watches with phenomenal finishing, those made of never-before-seen materials, some with a mind-boggling number of complications, and others combining all three. But the best watches are those with the best stories, and very few tell a better tale than the one that accompanied James Cameron to the abyssal depths of the Mariana Trench.
Since the Canadian filmmaker’s descent, Challenger Deep has become somewhat of a billionaire tourist hotspot, with 19 total trips made between 2019 and 2022 on board Limiting Factor. For comparison’s sake, after Walsh and Piccard became the first in 1960, no other attempt was made until more than five decades later in 2012, when Cameron cozied up inside Deepsea Challenger and set out to what would become the first-ever solo descent.
As a brand that has long been associated with pioneering diving escapades, Rolex made sure the story became relevant to us watch folk. As a long-time Rolex Testimonee, Cameron would of course be wearing one of Rolex’s watches for the journey, but the brand wasn’t about to let the bathyscaphe be outdone by Cameron’s wrist game... But such a feat would require a watch as technologically advanced as the sub that was going to “wear” it.
The result was the Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge, capable of withstanding more than 12 tonnes of crushing pressure, outfitted on the external manipulator arm of Deepsea Challenger. And just for good measure, Rolex bolted on a couple more of these experimental Sea-Dwellers to the hull of the submersible - it’s not every day you get the chance to test your watches at their theoretical limits. Measuring 51.4mm in diameter and 28.5mm thick, it would take the biggest wrist out there to pull off, with the sapphire crystal alone accounting for 14.3mm of the thickness.
These dimensions made the Deepsea Challenge a damn sight more wearable than the Deep Sea Special of 1960, Rolex’s first foray into deep-sea diving, and the watch that was strapped to the outside of Trieste, the vessel piloted by Walsh and Piccard. That said, that particular Oyster case brought the diameter to a more reasonable (what am I saying?) 42.7mm, but bulged out all the way out to 36mm with that fisheye-domed piece of plexiglass.
Compared to the all-titanium-cased Deepsea Challenge that Rolex unveiled for the 10th anniversary of Cameron’s dive, the 2012 model combined 904L steel for the midcase, grade 5 titanium for the caseback, and a nitrogen-alloyed steel for the Ring Lock System proudly branded on the front. As the watch dives deeper, the massive crystal and flexible caseback exert an increasing amount of pressure onto the ring, effectively improving its water-resistance, and coming together to withstand 13.6 tonnes of pressure. As reported by Cameron on the 26th of March 2012, the day he reached the seabed, the watch kept time at 1,200 atmospheres as well as you’d expect it to at sea level.
What does this story have to do with the Australian National Maritime Museum, though? It’s a fair question. Bar the fact that Cameron’s achievement is very much a piece of nautical history, his feat is much more closely linked to Australia than most people probably realise. After all, Deepsea Challenger was actually built in Sydney by Ron Allum, an experienced cave diver and long-term Cameron collaborator. Many of the submarine’s novel developments came from Allum’s Leichhardt workshop, and before the vessel ever hit the waters of the Pacific, its earliest test dives were limited to the shallow waters of Potts Point and the Garden Island Naval Yard. So, if you happened to find yourself having a midnight stroll on the warm Sydney summer night of January 26th 2012, you might’ve been able to spot a bright green sub bobbing just below the surface.
The museum tapped both Cameron and Allum for an inside scoop, and is displaying both Deepsea Challenger and one of the three Rolex Deepsea watches that visited the ocean floor, with the exhibition titled Ultimate Depth - a Journey to the Bottom of the Sea, closing in August of 2026. Find out more here.
All images courtesy of Rolex.
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